Buying your first pair of climbing shoes is one of the most important decisions you'll make as a new climber. Get it right and they'll accelerate your progress. Get it wrong and you'll spend every session distracted by foot pain instead of thinking about movement.
This guide covers fit, downturn, rubber, closure systems, and sizing so you can walk into a shop (or browse online) with a clear idea of what you actually need.
Start With Fit, Not Performance
The single biggest mistake new climbers make is buying a shoe that's too aggressive. Aggressive shoes are downturned and curved, designed to hook onto small holds on steep overhanging routes. They're great for advanced climbers, but not for beginners.
When you're starting out, your footwork is still developing. You need a flat or mildly downturned shoe that's comfortable enough to wear for a full session. If your feet are in agony, you won't be thinking about technique. At this stage, comfort is performance.
Rule of thumb: If you've been climbing less than a year, go flat. If you're on 5.10 to 5.11 and want to push harder, a moderate downturn makes sense. Super aggressive shoes are for 5.12+ climbers.
Understanding Downturn
Downturn refers to how curved the shoe is from heel to toe. Think of it as a spectrum:
Rubber Matters More Than You Think
The rubber on the sole determines how sticky the shoe feels on rock and plastic. Softer rubber grips better but wears faster. Harder rubber edges more precisely and lasts longer.
As a beginner you don't need to obsess over this. Most entry level shoes use reliable medium hardness compounds that perform well across all terrain. What matters more is that the rubber is continuous and correctly shaped for smearing.
Worth knowing: Vibram XS Grip2 (used by La Sportiva and Scarpa) and Stealth C4 (Five Ten) are the two most respected rubber compounds out there. Both are excellent, and you'll encounter them often as you progress.
Closure Systems
There are three main closure types and each one has its place:
For most beginners, velcro is the practical choice. Easy to slip off between climbs, and the fit is still dialled enough for solid footwork.
How Tight Should They Be?
Climbing shoes should fit snugly but not painfully. A common mistake is aggressively downsizing based on what more experienced climbers do. Those climbers have built up tolerance over years. As a beginner, prioritise a shoe you can actually climb in for a full session.
Your toes should be lightly curled or flat but not screaming. There should be no dead space at the heel, and the shoe shouldn't slide around when you stand on a small hold.
On sizing: Most climbing shoes run small compared to your street shoe. Expect to go roughly half a size to a full size down, depending on the brand. Leather uppers will also stretch about half a size after break-in, so keep that in mind.
Our Beginner Recommendations
Based on fit, comfort, and value, these are the three shoes we'd point a new climber toward: